Marinette Boat Forum

Hello, good to have a forum with chance of answering some basic plumbing questions that are not really
elaborated on in my book: "Understanding Boat Plumbing and Water Systems," (by John C. Payne.)
I'm in the re-plumbing phase of the restoration of a 1969 River Cruiser houseboat (34' LOA.) I'm converting to
an outboard set-up (so anyone knows were I can get a good used 4-stroke let me know.)
I want to use a manifold type distribution (so-called "Water Web" in Mr. Payne's book.) It mentions
in the Hose Fitting section that "in most cases you will need to use reducers...for 1/2-inch ID hoses."
I'm going to use 1/2" hoses for all my faucets but the question is does the water line coming in from my
city water inlet need to be a larger size going into the manifold distribution box and then branch off at the
1/2-inch lines to faucets? Also, does this count also for the water line going from my D/C pump going into manifold?

There looks to be about 3 major Pex fitting companies with their own ways to connect: 1) "Flair it" 2) "Apollo Pex"
and 3) "Sea-Tech" which are either push-on assembly or crimp on deals. I would like to go with cheapest and
most widely available (like at Home Depot or Lowe's and without special ordering etc.) but I wondered about how other
people's experiences have been with using the Pex fittings...is one better than another?

On another note: is it recommended I use an accumulator tank with the use with the newer on-demand D/C water pumps
(I hear that the accumulator tanks are not needed with those newer pumps because the circuitry precisely senses the flow/demand
for water immediately.) Anyone with experience with those newer D/C pumps from Shureflow etc?

Any ideas on a good hot water heater? I know you can go with the Cadillac of marine hot water heaters (Isotemp) and you
can use a simple on-demand hot water heater, but any experiences with what's been successful out there?
The book by Mr. Payne suggests not using a water heater with element ratings that exceed 1,200-1,800 watts.

I appreciate the people who read the post, but appreciate more the people who respond to the post, thanks so much,
Roger...and almost forgot...check out some of the renderings made over past year on my (external) photo-sharing site:
http://s1216.photobucket.com/user/proje ... r%20system

Being a Cheapskate, I replaced my heater with one I got from The Home Depot. Good so far (2 years).

Jeff

If the water heater is going to be mounted in the bilge where fuel vapors settle, it has to be ignition proof. The thermostat of a non-ignition proof water heater can arc as the bimetalic switch opens and closes.

Where the water heater goes is on the other side of the isolation bulkhead, so fumes should not be as problem.

Jeff

Roger,

Not a plumber but have plumbed a house I built as well as worked on plumbing for boat.

I can't speak to the Pex connections but basic plumbing dictates that to get as much out of a manifold at all outlets simultaneously (think someone taking a shower and someone else washing dishes (I'll let you figure out who's doing what... ), a larger inlet will allow more water into the manifold at as high a pressure as your DC pump will produce. The manifold outlets would then be reduced and the outlets will benefit from the higher input capacity of the manifold.

Bill