Marinette Boat Forum

well after taking down the ceiling the factory wiring is a total mess-I was thinking of running overhead lights thru out the inside but the trouble is the walls are so thin that putting any switches in them is imposable. any thoughts on what others have done?

Thanks Mark
1986 39ft sedan

Well This is the age of wireless or clap on clap off Hmmm wireless three way swithches who knows what google might find http://www.smarthome.com/skylinkhome-sk ... f-kit.html
I have seen 120v lighting install indirectly around the windows, between the curtains and cornice boards but they were controlled by a switch located in the ceiling by the out side door,
bill

So you'll be installing switches in a wall whose covering is extremely thin (ie, really thin plywood)? Best way I can see is to increase the thickness of the wall area where the switch box will go.

How?
1. You'll know the size hole you'll need for the box to fit inside of.
2. Cut a piece of ply <filler piece> (maybe 3/8" or 1/2" thick? (1/4" may work also if the combined thickness of the outer hole's material plus the filler piece will give you adequate thickness) 1 1/2" larger than the hole. (ex. hole is 2" x 3" . Cut piece 5" x 6".)
3. Cut out the hole you'll need from this piece - ensure you center it. ( ie. there'll be 1 1/2" on all sides after the hole's cut out.)
- Check hole for correct size to the outer hole and adjust as needed. They should match exactly.

(how to get the piece 5" x 6" behind the wall when the exterior hole is 2" x 3"?)

Have handy:
3 small wood phillips head screws (you'll only need 2 but having that extra 1 will decrease the "aw, snit" moment if you drop one. )
Phillips screwdriver
4 to 8 small "C" clamps
wood / carpenter glue

4. Cut the "filler piece" in half length wise.
5. You should now be able to fit/jockey each of the newly halved pieces through the outer hole- 1 at a time!
Do following steps on first one before inserting the 2nd one.
-> Hold halved filler piece in place temporarily with your fingers.
(coat halved filler piece's surface that will butt up against the back of the exterior wall with carpenter glue before doing this).
6. Position it to fit and pull it up tightly.
7. Run a small wood screw into just one spot - just to keep it in position.
8. Repeat with the other "side" of the filler piece.
9. Use small "C" clamps around the hole to bring the glue coated surfaces into good all-around contact with the back of the exterior material.
10. When the glue's dried remove the "C" clamps and you should now have a well built up backing for your switch box.

Bill

LED lights have come a long way and I have installed 1600-lumen overhead LED lights in my M. I bought them from China. These lamps are equivalent to a 100W bulb and draw a couple of amps at 12V.

It is so much easier to stick with 12V lighting, which is safer and only needs small switches which can be installed anywhere. There is absolutely no advantage to 120V lighting, not any more.

I would use 2-conductor marine cable, and I usually get mine for cheap at Skycraft in Orlando.

Agree w/Doug in these days of low draw LED's (1600 lumens is a lotta lite, wow). Marinette did 120v valance lighting in the cabin and I saw an inspector's report slamming them for the way they did the installation with unsheathed wiring (the wires were covered of course but not in a heavy duty material). That said, the valance lighting was indirect and warm at night and controlled by a dimmer. Looked nice.

Just call me stuck in the fast, er, past lane.....


... and when we come back to the boat at night, having the valance lights set lower creates a warm, "glad you're back" feelin'.

Bill